True henna powder, as opposed to compound hennas, only comes in one shade: a fiery orange-red. The final colour depends most largely on the original hair colour, whether natural or dyed. Lighter hair will show henna as a vivid orange, whereas dark brown hair will take on a rich mahogany tint. Additives to henna cannot dramatically change the end result (the exception being indigo), but they may produce subtly different results. Additives also affect the henna mix itself, and can be used to hasten dye release or to mask the pungent henna smell.
Adding Acid to Henna Paste
Henna releases its dye faster when combined with a mildly acidic liquid. The most commonly-used acids are lemon juice, vinegar and wine. Some people believe that using red wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar enhances the redness of the final product, albeit temporarily. Slightly acidic liquids are actually good for hair, as they close down the cuticle of the hair, leaving it shiny and smooth.
Adding Beetroot Juice to Henna Paste
The effects of beetroot juice may wear off after a few days, but when used in henna mix it gives an initially redder tinge, which helps to tone down the initial pre-oxidation orange colour.
Adding Coffee to Henna Paste
Coffee is said to darken the final henna colour, adding slightly browner notes. Ground coffee beans can be added to the mix, or liquid coffee can be added to the henna powder in place of water.
Adding Essential Oils to Henna Paste
Essential oils are chiefly added to the mix in order to disguise the new-mown grass smell of henna, which some find unpleasant. Essential oils should always be used with caution, especially during pregnancy. Proponents of natural haircare may add essential oils such as rosemary, nettle and sage to their henna mix to prevent thinning hair.
Some essential oils contain terpenes, which help to release the dye in henna quickly and efficiently. Tea tree oil, lavender, cajeput and geranium are commonly used to 'terp' henna, hastening the process of dye release and ensuring a good dark stain.
Head lice do not like henna, but for an extra precaution, tea tree oil can be added to the mix to help repel the creatures.
Adding Indian Herbs to Henna Paste
Different Indian herbs will add different properties to henna. Amla will cool and darken the red; shikakai, amla and fenugreek (methi) will make the mix easier to apply and rinse out.
Adding Indigo to Henna Paste
Indigo is a bluish-black plant dye which is often combined with henna as "henndigo" to produce a much darker result, from browner red tones to jet black.
Adding Pectin to Henna Paste
Adding pectin, the substance used to set jams and jellies, produces a gel-like henna paste which is easier and less messy to apply than regular henna paste.
Adding Spices to Henna Paste
Spices, like essential oils, can help mask the henna smell. Spices also have a slight effect on the colour – paprika and cloves brighten red, cinnamon tinges henna faintly brown, and turmeric and saffron give strong yellow tones. Those with sensitive scalps should use 'hot' spices such as paprika with caution.
Adding Tea to Henna Paste
Herbal, fruit or regular teas are commonly added to henna. Different teas produce slightly different colour variations, with black tea making the final result browner and chamomile adding more golden tones.
Adding Yoghurt to Henna Paste
Yoghurt has triple benefits in a henna mix. It is slightly acidic. It contains protein, which many people find beneficial as a hair treatment (henna also contains protein). It also helps to thicken the henna paste to an easy-to-handle consistency, neither too runny nor too dry. Yoghurt or conditioner can also dilute henna paste to make a henna gloss.
Remember, always strand-test a new henna mix to avoid unpleasant surprises!
Sarah Tennant - Sarah Tennant is a onetime English major who lives in New Zealand with her husband and two small children. Her interests range from ...
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