Conventional haircare dictates that the hair is washed with shampoo, stripping it of oil and moisture, before that moisture is replaced with conditioner. A gentler form of haircare, used for millenia, involves using oil to soak the hair prior to washing, cushioning it from the sometimes harsh or drying effects of cleansing. The result is clean, shiny, moisturised hair.
Different Methods of Oiling
Using oil on hair can be part of one of two haircare methods:
Using Oil on Hair as a Deep Moisture Treatment
In this method, oil is applied to the roots and length of the hair and left to soak in for an hour or as long as overnight. A plastic bag or hot towel can be used to cover the hair during this time. Deep treatments require more hair than other forms of oiling – the hair can look noticeably oily. After the hair has soaked, it is washed using either regular shampoo or a natural haircare equivalent.
Using Oil on Hair as a Conditioner After Washing
After washing, a tiny amount of oil can help keep hair moisturised and shiny. It is best to apply the oil while the hair is damp but not dripping. To do this, pour a drop or two of oil onto your palms and rub them together. Too much oil makes hair look greasy – use just enough so your palms have a faint sheen when the oil is rubbed in. Then stroke the length of your hair with your hands, avoiding the roots, and finger-comb your hair for a few minutes to distribute the oil along your length.
It’s worth trying this out a few times before washing your hair to see how much oil is too much – many people are over-enthusiastic and accidentally saturate their hair in oil, resulting in a greasy mess that has to be washed out.
Who Can Benefit From Hair Oiling?
Natural haircare is a highly individual science. Some people find oiling works beautifully for them; others do not. In general, oiling is good for long and/or dry hair. Coarser, thicker hair can usually benefit from heavier oils, while fine and thin hair often responds better to light oils. Darker hair often looks shiny after oiling, while fair hair may look greasy or dirty if too much oil is used. In addition, "thirsty" hair will often initially respond well to a larger quantity of oil, but become greasy over time if oiling is not reduced.
What Kinds of Oils and Butters Are Right For Hair Oiling?
One popular hair oil is jojoba (technically not at oil, but an ester). Jojoba is light, making it suitable for use on fine hair, and has a composition similar to human sebum.
Coconut oil is traditionally used for hair oiling in India. While it may be too heavy for fine hair it is praised by women with thicker hair, especially African-American women.
Other oils used include:
- emu oil – not suitable for vegans
- castor oil – heavy and possibly comodogenic, but helps counteract hair loss
- olive oil – another heavy oil
- apricot kernel oil – a lighter oil
- sweet almond oil – lighter than olive oil, but heavier than apricot kernel oil
A number of commercial hair oils combine different oil bases with essential oils and herbs. The mixes may be based on medical or Ayurvedic principles, or simply combine oils to make a pleasing texture and fragrance. Hair oils may also be formulated to treat specific scalp conditions such as dandruff. Some people prefer to avoid hair oils which contain mineral oil as a base.
As well as oils, butters such as shea and cocoa butter can used after melting. As with oils, heavier butters tend to suit coarser, thicker hair.
Sarah Tennant - Sarah Tennant is a onetime English major who lives in New Zealand with her husband and two small children. Her interests range from ...
Join the Conversation