The beauty of Indian women’s hair is famous – in fact, most of the hair sold for high prices for use in weaves is donated by Indian women at ashrams. Even though these women are donating their hair for religious reasons and thus have no financial incentive for keeping it in good condition, this hair tends to be shiny, long, thick and extremely valuable.
One reason for this may be the Indian custom of using herbs to cleanse and condition hair. Here are a few of the most commonly-used herbs, which are easy to find in an Indian or Asian grocery, or in natural or health food stores.
Using Amla to Wash Hair
Amla is actually a fruit, known as Indian gooseberry and loaded with vitamin C. For hair care purposes, it is sold either as a pale brown, pleasant-smelling powder or as amla oil. Purchased amla oils are usually made with a mineral oil base, but for those wishing to avoid mineral oils a substitute can be made by mixing amla powder with jojoba or coconut oil.
Amla powder is traditionally mixed with other Indian herbs, and valued for its gentle cleansing properties. Soaked in water, the paste is applied to the head, left for a few minutes and then washed off.
Using Shikakai to Cleanse Hair
Shikakai comes from the bark, leaves and pods of an Indian shrub. The powder is reputed to cure dandruff and strengthen hair; it also acts as a gentle cleanser. It is used in the same way as amla, although the paste takes less time to soak.
Using Fenugreek to Condition Hair
Fenugreek (also known as methi) is an unusual herb – unlike amla and shikakai, which are principally used for cleansing hair, fenugreek has mucilaginous properties and is used to give hair “slip”, like a commercial conditioner. Fenugreek seeds are sold whole or ground in the spices section of an Asian supermarket – the seeds are also delicious in curry. Once soaked, the seeds release a slimy substance that is usually added to a mixture of amla, shikakai and/or henna.
Using Soapnuts to Clean Hair
Soapnuts, also known as ritha, reetha and aritha, are not nuts but fruits that are dried and sold, whole or in powder form, for a variety of washing uses including laundry. The soapnuts are soaked in water, and the resulting liquid used (sometimes diluted or shaken into a foam) to clean the hair. Soapnuts are reputed to prevent excess shedding and repel head lice.
Using Henna to Condition and Colour Hair
Henna is most famously used as a vivid natural hair dye. For Indian women, henna’s dye produces subtle results, usually only visible as a mahogany sheen in the sunlight. However, henna also acts as a strengthening protein treatment for hair, repels head lice and is often reported to make hair thicker. The leaves of the henna shrub are sold in powder form, mixed with liquid (often acidic) and left for several hours, until the henna releases its dye. The henna may then be mixed with other Indian herbs, and is applied to the head and left for several hours before rinsing.
Using Cassia to Condition Hair
Cassia is often sold as “neutral henna” or “clear henna” - while this is botanically inaccurate, cassia powder does provide some of the conditioning benefits of henna without the dye (although it may stain very pale blonde hair golden).
The best way to succeed with Indian hair care is plenty of trial and error, mixing and matching, and keeping notes on how various mixtures affected your hair. Many Indian herbs are slightly drying, which is handy for oily scalps, but can be hard on the tips of long hair; this can be counteracted by oiling hair.
Sarah Tennant - Sarah Tennant is a onetime English major who lives in New Zealand with her husband and two small children. Her interests range from ...
