Many women attempting a 1940-inspired hairdo become frustrated when their hair refuses to achieve the fluffy, layered curls of the period. Modern blunt haircuts simply cannot give an authentic vintage look; the curls form a single heavy row rather than several fluffier rows, and the hemline of the hair does not fall correctly.
Choosing a Middy Cut
Vintage enthusiasts should pause before committing to a middy cut. The middy is an essential base for most 1940s styles, and allows for plenty of variation with bangs, pincurls, Marcelling, victory rolls, reverse rolls and other techniques. However, some daily styling is essential.
Left to itself on straight hair the middy looks like a particularly unusual mullet; and the style does not lend itself well to quick modern hairdos such as braids or ponytails. The middy should therefore be avoided by those whose lifestyle requires a wash-and-wear haircut, or those who wear vintage only occasionally and prefer more modern hairstyles for the rest of the week.
Essential Elements of a Middy Cut
Middy cuts can vary somewhat in length. Their main feature is that the hair along the back of the head, in a wide strip from the temples to the back of the neck, is cut in layers of equal length. 4 inches is a common length; 5 inches was referred to as a “Middy plus”. The layers are about an inch and a half deep, and distinct enough that pincurls will neatly cover the back of the head rather than bunching up or leaving gaps.
The hair on the side of the head is typically cut on an angle – shorter at the chin line, scooping to longer at the back. The hemline as a whole should have a dramatic U shape.
Styling a Middy Cut
Straight hair was virtually never worn in the 1940s, and the middy was specifically designed to accommodate the popular curls and waves of the period. Using period techniques ensures an authentic result, and most vintage re-enactors prefer to use setting lotion, pin curls and sponge rollers rather than resorting to modern perms or hair straighteners.
Finding a Hairdresser Who Will Cut a Middy
For a cut as specific as a middy, it is important to choose an experienced hairdresser – preferably, if you can find one, a hairdresser familiar with vintage styling. A number of diagrams of the middy cut are available – one helpful book is Daniela Turudich’s book 1940s Hairstyles.
Take along such a chart, make sure the hairdresser understands it clearly, and show her some photos of 1940s stars so she can see how the cut works once styled. You may have to reassure her that it’s okay if it looks strange once cut – the finished product will only become apparent once you add curls!
Alternatives to a Middy Cut
For those who don’t want to commit to the maintenance and specific look of a middy, some compromise haircuts are possible which look attractive worn loose in a modern context, and allow for some of the benefits of a middy. Ask for a U-shaped hemline and/or soft layers.
Alternatively, a pixie cut can be pincurled to look similar to another 1940s hairstyle, the shingle.
Sarah Tennant - Sarah Tennant is a onetime English major who lives in New Zealand with her husband and two small children. Her interests range from ...
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