“Natural” is a powerful advertising buzzword these days, especially for products we put in or on our bodies. Cosmetic chain Lush markets their products as funky, eco-friendly and natural; but a look at the ingredients shows that a Lush conditioner or shampoo bar is made from far more than essential oils and coconut milk.
Lush Hair Products Contain SLS
Sodium lauryl sulfate is avoided by many people because of its tendency to sensitize the skin and/or cause contact dermatitis. The majority of Lush cleansers contain SLS – it’s what gives the products the lather factor. Natural hair care advocates point out that by its relatively harsh cleansing process and stripping of scalp oils, SLS trains the scalp to overcompensate by producing excess protective oils. This can lead to a cycle of overcleansing and a scalp that quickly becomes greasy again. Curiously, Lush conditioners contain SLS as well as their shampoos, even though most commercial conditioners do not contain SLS.
Lush Henna is Compound Henna
Pure, body-art quality henna makes an excellent natural hair dye that works with the hair’s natural colour to achieve a result along the orange-to-red spectrum. Lighter hair will look orange; dark hair will take on a mahogany sheen.
Lush henna is compound henna – that is, it is mixed with other ingredients. (As a rule of thumb: any time henna is sold in various different shades, it is not pure henna.) Some of these additions are benign and herbal – cassia is a natural hair conditioner, while indigo is a herb which makes henna applications darker. The henna is also combined with non-dye ingredients, however, including cocoa butter (to form the henna into a solid “cake”) and – depending on the colour – geraniol, clove bud oil and linalool. The latter, when oxidised (as would happen with Lush products, which are exposed to the air) can cause eczema in some individuals.
The use of cocoa butter is particularly odd, as grease inhibits the dye uptake of henna. Perhaps for this reason, many people find that Lush henna does not produce as brilliant a red as other hennas, and is more difficult to rinse out.
Other Non-Natural Products in Lush Cosmetics
One of Lush’s distinctive features is the strong smell of various perfumes that greets visitors who walk into the stores. Many of the products contain “perfume” - the site does not elaborate further – and some people find the scents overpowering when used. It is common for hair to retain the smell of Lush products for a few washes. For those sensitive to smells, it may be wise to avoid the more heavily perfumed products.
A minority of Lush products contain parabens, which some people prefer to avoid; artificial colours; and, in one product, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. The latter is listed by the Cosmetic Database as having suspected immunotoxic effects.
Does This Mean Lush Products Are Evil?
Not necessarily! Lush products are certainly no more chemical-laden than the average supermarket brand of shampoo, and the ingredients in each product are clearly stated on their website and flyers. Perhaps Lush does get a bit of mileage out of people who don’t read the labels and simply assume “Lush” equals “natural and additive-free”; but as marketing sins go, this is fairly minor. And while there are health concerns with some synthetic products, it is not true that "natural" products are automatically healthier or gentler than chemical products.
The best way to avoid unwanted substances in hair products is to make your own, or to use products comprised of a single ingredient (such as jojoba oil or apple cider vinegar). If you have constantly problematic hair it may be wise to try some products without sulfates, parabens or other sometimes-problematic products, to see if your hair fares better without them.
Sarah Tennant - Sarah Tennant is a onetime English major who lives in New Zealand with her husband and two small children. Her interests range from ...
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